Island Hopping

Exploring the Champlain Islands

BY KATHY HOWARD

Although Vermont can't boast an ocean waterfront, it does have an inland sea and the Champlain Islands. Herein lies more shoreline along beautiful Lake Champlain than can be found in any other part of Vermont. Located halfway between Montreal and Burlington, the Champlain Islands consist of the towns of South Hero, Grand Isle, North Hero, Alburg, and Isle LaMotte and are easily reached by driving across one of the scenic causeways or bridges that connect to the mainland, or by a short ride on the Grand Isle ferry.

"The Islands," as the locals refer to them, are 30-miles long and 8-miles wide and welcome visitors with breathtaking views, rich history, and a plethora of fun and recreational opportunities all year-round. There are a wide variety of dining choices, inns and campgrounds, festivals and community celebrations, as well as golfing, swimming, fishing, and boating. Outdoor enthusiasts won't be disappointed with the many hiking and biking trails, the variety of State Parks providing lake access for swimming and kite boarding, or with the prime fishing spots along the shores or in the deep waters. For the history buff, the Champlain Islands' chronicles and lore date back to Civil War days. Reportedly, Ethan Allen was thought to have spent the final day of his life at his cousin Ebenezer Allen's tavern in South Hero reminiscing with the Green Mountain Boys. The oldest cabin in New England was built in Grand Isle by one of the Islands' pioneer settlers, Captain Jebediah Hyde, and it is still standing and open to the public from May through October.

The Sand Bar State park at the southern-most point of entry to the Champlain Islands welcomes visitors to its sandy beach, green grass for picnics, and shade trees for an afternoon siesta. Some of the best kite boarding and kayaking are launched from this park. The first of many causeways will lead you into the town of South Hero where you can find Allenholm Farm, Vermont's oldest working apple orchard and an Allen family farm since 1870. The farm stand offers fresh fruit, creemee's, Vermont products, and in the autumn, you can pick your own apples in the orchard. South Hero is also home to the annual Apple Festival; here you will find South Street lined with flea market tables, food vendors, crafts, and exhibits celebrating the harvest season. And if that isn't enough to pique your interest, you can explore shops such as the Green Frog where you can buy moccasins for the whole family, or visit Junk & Disorderly, an antique shop where you'll find unique mementos of your trip.

Hungry in South Hero? The variety of eateries for such a small town is sure to delight. For informal fare in a relaxed environment, visit Wally's Place for a homemade bagel or McKee's Pub for lunch and a brew. Visit the Blue Paddle Bistro for more upscale dining and international flare. While you're there, you can enjoy the aroma of fresh-from-the-oven brownies baked by the nearby Vermont Brownie Company.

Travel further north to the sleepy town of Grand Isle to visit the historic Hyde Cabin, Knight Point State Park, or stop by the Ed Weed Fish Culture Station, the newest and largest of the five Vermont state hatcheries for educational opportunities for historians or environmentalists. Never was there a more perfect backdrop for the Summer Shakespeare in the Park Festival than in Grand Isle at the Islands Center at Knight Point State Park. See "Much Ado About Nothing" with the lake lapping the shore and the wind in the trees on Aug. 12-15.

A few northbound causeways and bridges bring travelers to North Hero, where visitors are greeted with a "Hero's Welcome," the name given to this century-old general store. It lives up to its name: it has long been the center of town activities and is filled with everything imaginable. Hero's Welcome consists of four buildings that contain a well-stocked old-fashioned country store, goods for the marina, kayak and boat rentals, and it even serves as a post office! Not to be outdone by the multi-tasking nature of the Hero's Welcome, the North Hero House provides year-round lodging, fabulous cuisine, wedding and meeting facilities, as well as access to activities such as swimming, boating, skating, and cross-country skiing.

Finally, many visitors travel to the historic waterfront site of Saint Anne's Shrine on the Isle Lamotte for devotion or for recreation. Its beautiful grounds scattered with pine trees, lake views, the shrine, and rustic grottos offer everyone a peaceful place for contemplation.

The Champlain Islands offer year-round beauty and peaceful pleasures. Doesn't that sound just a little bit like paradise?